Keepin’ it Weird: An Austin Getaway

Does this look like fun or what? I love Austin. Any town that knows how to string a strand of lights to optimal effect is ok in my book. I count myself lucky to have family that lives in Austin, which gives me a great excuse to visit and often. I’ve put together a spanktacular list of great things to do with the help of my co-contributor and Austin local, Lauren Crandall aka my sister-in-law and girl about town. She knows the dealio and is always the first to know about the next great place.

Austin’s motto is “Keep Austin Weird”- although these days you’re more likely to spot a bumper sticker that read “Austin Sucks”. Not to worry- the locals have not turned on their beloved hometown, just trying to deflect the rest of the world that seems to finally have caught on. With Apple moving its headquarters to the capital city, it’s hard to imagine how this town can really maintain its quirk. But knowing the Texans- especially the Austinites- they’ll do their damnedest.

Stay@: San Jose Hotel
Nosh@: La Condessa
Dance@: Barbarella’s
Moviego@: Alamo Drafthouse
Play@: Barton Springs
Eat@: Uchi
Swirl@: Apothecary
Listen@: East Side Showroom
Shop@: Feathers
Chill@: Thunderbird

More on these to follow. Now, let’s get down to brass tacks and talk turkey.

Look out San Fran and Brooklyn, Austin has turned foodie. It’s been in the works for over the last 10 years but Austin now hosts a bevy of establishments to rival the top foodie towns, USA.

Downtown:

Congress: fancy pants prix-fixe dining with both a three and seven course tasting menu offered. Upscale all around.

Counter Cafe: I love this place. A great little diner with a modern vibe, saddle up to the counter and order one of Austin’s best burgers or the very yummy grilled pimiento cheese sandwich. The sweet potato fries are delish too. Walk across the street to take in a real live… wait for it- BOOK STORE. BookPeople is a great local bookstore if you can believe it with recommendations from real live people that work there. I don’t know how much more time they have, so take it in while you can.

Hula Hut: kid-friendly Tiki-tastic Mexican surfer food and right on the water, makes sense to me.

Iron Works: down-home delicious bbq.

Justine’s Brasserie: I ate at Justine’s about 2 years ago and fell in love with it. An old East Side Austin house housing a record player turning out a crackly Edith Piaf, delicious French bistro food and wine all under a few lovely strands of lights. Ok, it’s pretty hipsterish, very Fort Greene circa 2007, but in a really good way. They could bump up their wine list a bit to the discerning French vin drinker but there’s plenty to pick from especially from the Languedoc which is right on for a place like Justine’s. I dig it.

La Condessa: this place just rocks out the traditional Mexican food with a ridiculous tequila list. Everybody loves this place. Just go.

Lambert’s: fancy downtown delicious bbq, great digs in an old warehouse.

Swift’s Attic:  another small plates farm to table phenomenon. Serving up delicious eats and promoting the “Creative, Whimsical, and Delicious” with an interesting wine list to boot, this is the kind of place you’d like to find yourself any night of the week.

North Austin:

Hillside Farmacy: so charming. One stop-shopping- an eatery and grocery in one. Get your farm fresh eggs on the table and a pork chop cut to go. And down a few oysters while you’re at it, they have a great raw bar.

Olive & June: a small plate and sophisticated Italian spot in Rosedale, a very local ‘hood just north of downtown. Yum. (pictured above)

Tacodeli: excellent tacos and that’s saying a lot in Texas. Get there early though, they close at 3pm.

Uchiko: Japanese Farmhouse dining presented to you by one of Austin’s finest and James Beard award winner Tyson Cole. ’nuff said.

South Austin:

Barley Swine: one of last year’s best new chefs, Bryce Gilmore reigns king in this kitchen. A small plates style establishment serving up local fare, this place does it right with a great wine list, craft beers and tasty food. I love that their website bios everyone from the chef and owner to the cooks.

Elizabeth Street Cafe: Noodles, Bahn Mi, Boulangerie- does it get better? An idyllic little place serving up delicious French Vietnamese fare. I will be hitting this place up on my next visit.

Lenoir: a tuned up French restaurant aiming for the local clientele run by chef power couple Todd Duplechan and Jessica Maher. The space has a very global and organic feel- very ABC Kitchen- and anyone that puts a sparkling Gamay on the list is ok in my book.

Maudie’s: a self-proclaimed Tex-Mex heaven. Good stuff- if that’s what you’re looking for, this is where you should be.

Perla’s Seafood & Oyster Bar: One of the best patios in town to while away your day. Savor a few fresh oysters and some crispy Texas Gulf snapper, then wash it all down with a Simonnet-Fevbre Brut Rosé by the glass.  Yumminess ensues.

South Congress Cafe: a good go to spot for brunch where it is served daily. A mainstay, this place takes diner dining to new heights. Right on the main drag in South Austin.

Sway: Recently opened from the La Condessa kids, I just tried this place this past December. Ridiculously delicious authentic yet modern Thai that really has that Texas kick to it. My tastebuds always have to readjust when I land in the Lone Star State and this place is no exception. So tasty, so stylish and so friendly- I even saw a couple of car seats in this stylish joint.

Uchi: the fancier version of Uchiko with contemporary Japanese cuisine.

Food Trucks and Trailers and Airstreams- Oh My!

This town is chock full of them giving Portland a run for its money. Here are a few standouts:

East Side King: Top Chef Texas winner Paul Qui’s food truck empire on Austin’s East Side. This guy is on a roll- from Uchiko to East Side King to the soon to be opened Qui, you know you want to check out his food. Grab yourself a flip happy crepe.

Gordough’s: donuts that are not to be believed- this truck is Paula Deen’s dream. The Mother Clucker is somehow a donut with fried chicken strips and honey butter icing. I don’t even get it. If you go, let me know what you think.

G’raj Mahal Cafe: As Lauren puts it, “absurdly delicious Indian” and she’s tough, so this one’s a must.

Hey Cupcake!: that adorable airstream with the pink cupcake on top (see top image). How can you pass this place up, it’s just so cute.

Cocktails & Libations:

Bar Ilegal: (above) is a quiet respite from the notoriously douchey Rainey Street bars. Step inside and may the douchiness disappear as you savor the all-Mezcal menu. A sipper’s paradise. The cantina style stone building will make you feel like John Wayne saddling up to the bar in a John Ford western. Who doesn’t love that.

Bar Congress: this marble topped bar serves up an excellent cocktail list by some of the city’s top ‘tenders, it’s swanky too.

Easy Tiger: fun, laughs, good times- name that musical. A quirky beer garden with a retro personality and obscure wine and beer picks right along Walnut Creek- pretty.

Lala’s: a complete hole decorated in Christmas lights year round, with a fair amount of Hobbit spotting (aka Elijah digs it).

Midnight Cowboy: an old brothel, the original sign reads “Midnight Cowboy Modeling Oriental Massage” (Modeling… really guys- just who did you think you were fooling?), this place is now a swankadoo speakeasy with killer cocktails. With a checkered past, you know this place still maintains its intrigue when its home page reads, “please refrain from excessive displays of public affection and unwelcome advances towards members of other parties.” It must get crazy up in there. Reservations required via their website.

Peche: with over 10 different Absinthe infused cocktails, this place is a mixologist’s delight. Pony up to the bar where you can indulge in their delicious bar menu alongside one of those lip smacking cocktails.

Vino:

Apothecary Cafe & Wine Bar: swirl it up in this darling north Austin spot where they take great pride in their rotating wine list and they should, it’s a good one. It would be tough to stay away from the Pierre Peters grower champagne, but there are lots of wonderful old and new world bottles.

Aviary Lounge and Home Decor: unique and very Austin, this South Austin spot is actually a home decor store with a cute little wine bar and a killer wine list as an added bonus. I love it- the good things in life. The couple who owns Aviary were just written up in Apartment Therapy for their chic style. See their home tour here.

Henri’s Cheese and Wine: a cute little cheese shop with a great little wine list.

Red Room Wine Lounge: An Austin sommelier’s home away from home. This is where the pros go- need I say more? Bill Elsey, Texas’ Sommelier of the Year 2011 is behind the bar to guide your tastebuds and impart some of his vast knowledge. No food, no beer, no cocktails. Just vino. I like it.

Vino Vino: one of my favorite wine bloggers, Jeremy Parzen of DoBianchi, regularly leads tasting events at this local oenophile’s fave. That’s kind of reason enough for me to patronize this place, I’m sold. My brother and sister-in-law annually attend their sparkling fest every December and are big fans.

Wink: specializing in old world wines with over 45 wines by the glass, Wink Wine Bar is a cozy little spot behind the noteworthy restaurant. Kick back with a great glass and food from Wink in a more relaxed environment.

Taste:

Antonelli’s Cheese Shop: ok, so I’m still talking about eating but this is another great little cheese shop in North Austin offering a plethora of great cheese classes. If you find yourself with some time and a curiosity for camembert, this is your place.

Whole Foods: stop in to see the 80,000 square foot flagship store downtown. Most locals I know prefer Central Market but it’s still fun to peruse.

Chill:

Jo’s Coffee: this place is sort of what I pictured Austin looking like. Truthfully I think it may host more out of towners as the South Congress locale is adjacent to the Hotel San Jose but it’s still pretty fun to sit at the outdoor counter, read your iPad (I dare you to bust out a paper) and take in your cup of joe.

Thunderbird Coffee: I dig this place too. Relax with a latte or a Lone Star and take in the neighborhood. Two locations.

Romp:

Barton Springs: jump into this natural spring fed pool. If you’re there on a full moon, join the rest of the werewolves as they howl at the moon for a night swim every full moon at 9pm.

Lake Travis: cannonball into the teal waters of Lake Travis. Limestone lines the bottom of the lake so the water is an unbelievably pretty color- just like the Barton Springs pool. Rent a boat, a canoe, fish or just take a dip.

Zilker Park: hike, bike, canoe or ride the tiny train in this pretty park.

Moviego:

The Alamo Drafthouse: the most badass movie theater you’ve ever been to, in the traditional sense- we’re not talking about viewings of La Dolce Vita projected onto an Italian villa here- we’re talking about good old-fashioned moviegoing. You can never go back to your regular AMC again after experiencing the magic that is the Alamo Drafthouse. Stadium seating rocks it out, the food is really good and they feature craft beers, cocktails and a really good wine list. They also just get it. These guys know what they’re doing and who they’re catering to- a nostalgia-obsessed culture. When the new Die Hard movie is released, they know how to kick it old school and throw it back to 1988 with a screening of the original to get everyone psyched, no matter how bad the new one is. They show Roman Holiday alongside new releases, host 80s sing alongs and the best part- you get kicked out for talking. I like these guys. Thankfully they plan on taking over the world. An Alamo draft house is scheduled to open near DC this spring.

Shop:

Allens Boots: this is a must. Aisles and miles of beautiful cowboy boots right on South Congress.

Feathers Boutique: I try to stop in every time I’m in Austin. The buyers are fantastic, you can find a kickass vintage Oscar de la Renta silk top next to some vintage Nacona boots.

Parts & Labour: exclusively Lone-Star state produced goods, but of course.

Roadhouse Relics: if you’re a fan of signage, you’ll love this gallery where neon artist Todd Sanders shows and sells his fluorescent creations.

Shiki: 2nd Street has become the go to place for boutique shopping in Austin. Shiki was one of the first  to open its doors there and a great place to pick up a cool clutch or shop up and coming designers.

Uncommon Objects: an expertly curated antique goods store- don’t miss this spot. Curiosities galore.

Listen:

The Continental Club: swing, rockabilly, country- the usual suspects- pack the house in this swingin’ club retrofitted to its 1957 roots.

East Side Showroom: take in the accordion, a steel guitar, the Flying Balalaika Brothers, a tango milonga and a Japanese cocktail at this east side haunt. Surprised by any of this? At this point, it all just seems normal.

Stubb’s Bar-B-Q: Nick Cave, The Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Fall Out Boy- the big guys play this beer and bbq venue with a Sunday Gospel brunch to boot.

Kick Up Your Heels:

Barbarella’s: if you really want to dance it out nightclub style, this is your place. Mostly college students, but if the urge to dance the night away strikes you, you know where to go.

Donn’s Depot: a piano bar and saloon housed in an old train depot with 2 dance floors and a blackjack table just for the fun. This place is the deal. You’ll find a real mix of Austinites in this place.

Stay in a souped up Airstream: Soak up Austin in all its retro glory by renting the above airstream via airbnb.com for $65/night. Looks pretty cool and would definitely be memorable.

Hotel San Jose: do as the hipsters do and stay at the San Jose. This place really is cool and couldn’t be better located for your stay, right on the main drag in South Austin. The interiors and grounds are inspired. Rooms are decked out with cowhide rugs, mid-century furnishings and prints of rock legends. From $175 for a shared bathroom Euro style.

The Driskill: go old school and stay in this landmarked beauty. Built in 1886, this beauty has been fully restored and is now one of the Historic Hotels of America. Right downtown Austin, this hotel adds a little vintage luxe to your visit. From $259

W Austin: it’s a W. We all know what those are. Modern and fun, this one is right downtown in a great location with a swanky pool. This would be a great stay albeit pricey. From $429.

Four Seasons Austin: blow it out and stay at the Four Seasons. Also smack in the middle of downtown Austin. From $459.

If you are traveling with kids or just prefer a cozy stay with a kitchen, both airbnb.com and homeaway.com offer some fantastic home rentals. Austin is chock full of darling 1920s and 30s bungalows that have been tricked out and filled with smart furnishings perfect for a comfy stay.

Festival Town U.S.A.

Austin is always hosting some sort of festival. Austin City Limits (above) and SXSW are the biggies and there are plenty more. They’ve got a kite festival, a hot sauce festival, a reggae festival, a crawfish festival and Food & Wine has even set up shop with an annual gustatory festival every April. If you’re planning your getaway around one, do so early- accommodations book up fast.

Excursion

And lastly for the vino inclined who didn’t get enough in Austin proper, there’s an excursion to Hill Country where they’re churning out some awfully good wines. The heart of Texas Hill Country’s Wine Country is Fredericksburg, a charming little town. It’s a 70 mile drive from downtown so you could stay the night or just come out for the day.

4.0 Cellars: a newly opened collaboration between three excellent winemakers- Brennan Vineyards, Lost Oak Winery, and McPherson Cellars. In a modern and beautiful Texas limestone space, you can taste up to 5 pours from each label. Located in Fredericksburg, they also host live music on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Newly opened and named as one of Food & Wine’s Best New Places to Drink in 2012.

That should do it. Please leave your comments with your top Austin picks- I’d love to hear from you.

Yippee-Kay-Yay and Cin Cin!

{Images: Hello Cupcake: travelmuse.com, Barbarella: Xgray/flickr Alamo Drafthouse: Raquel Hill Design/flickr, Lake Travis: Kevin Vandivier, Uchi: ThatFoodieGirl.com, East Side Showroom: thehealthyirishman/flickriver, The Continental Club: Brett Harned/flickr}

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