In Search of Tippi, Cheese, and Oysters: A Coastal Adventure

Oh hello Pacific, I’ve missed you.

That piece of California coastline just north of San Francisco and south of Mendocino- its mystique has called to filmmakers, foodies, seafarers, writers and travelers alike for ages, and I finally had the perfect opportunity to see (and taste) for myself just what all the hubbub is about. I recently spent the day in Sonoma working on a winemaking story with photographer, Amy Dickerson. On the way up, we decided to make a few pit stops to investigate, explore and well… eat- let’s be honest. In truth, two of my stops had been a long time coming, sitting on my personal Hit List for years- a pilgrimage to The Birds‘ Bodega Bay, and an authentic California coastal oyster adventure- knocking off two birds with one stone. Boom. I love it when that happens.

This fog-filled and rocky coastline is dramatic, a bit eerie (thank you Mr. Hitchcock) and seductive without being overt about it. It’s more Adele than Minaj, if you will- it’s not really in your face but it lingers. Its landscape is still Mother Nature totally showing off, just not quite as dramatically as she does a bit farther south, but somehow its call is even stronger. California coastline aside, I knew oysters were responsible for some of the enticement as well, but had yet to try them in their hometown, and as a sucker for anything Hitchcockian, the cinematic backdrop of Bodega Bay is a must stop. 
Beachside at Bodega Bay.

Finding last minute lodging during the harvest in Sonoma County proved to be impossible, and Amy and I were forced to board outside of wine country proper. Ding- a light bulb- this is it, my chance to visit Bodega Bay- Tippi is calling. And on the way up just happens to be the tiny town of Marshall, California host to two of the most famous oyster joints in the country. Also a sucker (quite literally) for oysters, the idea that the twain shall meet had me pretty pumped.

Touchdown at SFO, car rented and off  and over the Bay Bridge we went. Making our way up the coast, we decided to really pack it all in and include a third pilgrimage making this a complete trifecta, a trinity if you will of all things food and film fantastic. First stop: the cheese mecca that is Cowgirl Creamery in charming Point Reyes Station. Just under an hour and a half from the airport in this quaint little town sits the Cowgirl cheese factory and shop where the goodness began. As I stepped out of our rental, I could instantly smell the salt air- oh hello California coast, how happy you make me. We made our way in to the Creamery and embarked on a mini tasting. Choosing a few Cowgirl hallmarks, namely the Red Hawk, Mt. Tam and Fromage Blanc (which is insanely good with blueberry jam on a baguette) and an other-worldly stinky cheese from the local town of Nicasio, we picked up some freshly baked bread and continued our journey up the coast.

Where the magic happens at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station.

Next stop: the oyster mecca that is Marshall, just ten twisty miles north of Pt. Reyes. This little area is one for the books and the photo albums- an absolute dream and a must for anyone that loves a coastline and an oyster- not exactly a tough bill to fill. But even if you don’t love oysters, be sure to make a pit stop in Marshall, but be on the lookout, blink and you’ll miss it. Scenic beyond belief, its natural and rugged beauty begs for a glass of sparkling wine just to celebrate its existence. There are lots of little local seafood shacks around these parts, but the two most famous for its oysters are Tomales Bay Oyster Co. and Hog Island Oyster Co.

We made our first stop at Tomales Bay’s self-shucking picnic spot. Talk about ambience. It is all at once rustic and rugged, charming, quaint and drop dead gorgeous, nestled on the shell-filled shores of Tomales Bay where a quick whiff brings in the perfume of fresh salty air and charring oysters on the grill. We wanted a look-see but I won’t lie, I’m no shucker. This place is for pros, you can borrow the staff’s knives to shuck, but you need to come armed with vino and anything else you want to nosh on. They are serious about the rules here, the grills are solely for the oysters, no meat please, and if you are down for this sort of adventure, I cannot imagine a better spot in the world. Just pony up to the counter to purchase your bivalves and set yourself up. We weren’t prepared with a picnic, so we made like Clark Griswald taking in the Grand Canyon, and promptly took off for Hog Island Oyster Co. After traveling all day, we couldn’t wait to sit down with some great vino and devour our already shucked oysters. Tomales Bay Oyster Co. also owns the Marshall Store where you don’t have to work for your dinner, but Hog Island was calling our name.

The picturesque picnic grounds at Tomales Bay Oyster Co.

Next stop: Hog Island Oyster Co.- cue the harkening angel chorus and spotlight. This little spot sits on a half moon-sized piece of land that lies just over the rocks and shells leading down to the bay, where fisherman are literally docking their small boats and heading up to shore with their daily catch in tow. The setting resembles a more rugged Cabot Cove and I felt a little like Jessica Fletcher, minus the murders, but full of the intrigue, curiosity and investigation. The people are friendly and everybody there- staff and patrons alike- clearly knows how to have a good time. This is the good life, folks. Saddle up to the big boat that doubles as the Oyster bar and order up both the raw and Chipotle-Bourbon BBQ oysters (oh my Gawd! -and this from a girl who always prefers her bivalves plain and simply raw), a few glasses of Iron Horse’s Wedding Cuvee’s Sparkling Wine (when in Rome, er, the Sonoma Coast) and prepare to be viscerally impressed.

The view from Hog Island Oyster Co.’s picnic tables.

The Marshall outpost is the Hog Island homebase that has spurred the San Francisco and Napa outposts where locals and tourists alike regularly line up around the block to sample the goods. Fresh from the source, here’s why…

Raw oysters, Chipotle Bourbon BBQ Oysters and a glass of Muscadet- heaven.

We arrived at Hog’s Island around 4pm, a little before they make last call, and were lucky to snag the last picnic table and get in a few rounds of oysters and drinks before we were politely called out as the last diners standing (or sitting in our case), and very nicely asked to promptly get our show on the road, but not before making fast friends with the locals and finding out the history behind Hog Island itself.- The eucalyptus tree-filled island sits in the middle of Tomales Bay. It briefly housed hundreds of pigs as a result of a bizarre incident in the 1870s, when the barge the pigs were traveling on collapsed. There are no pigs on the island now, it’s nothing but a pretty piece of rock as it has been donated to the Point Reyes National Seashore. After much ogling and “mmmm”-ing, in this perfect little picturesque movie set-looking cove, we finally dragged ourselves away from its beauty, plumper in the belly and leaner in the wallet (it ain’t cheap here, but for my money, the quality of the food, the wine and the view are well worth the price) to trade in for yet another magnificent bay still farther north.

A foghorn bell sounds in the distance here at Bodega Bay.

Last Stop: Bodega Bay, 22 miles north of Marshall. Driving up the meandering coastline as it winds its way north, the fog seems to settle in a bit lower, creating even more of a mystique around this Marine-layered coastline. That delicious fog is what makes those inland grapes so good, and what makes this patch of real estate so interesting, and dare I say a tad bit spooky. Maybe it’s just the images of “The Birds” I have forever emblazoned on my mind. Probably. As we drove up to the Bodega Bay Lodge, the eeriness quickly stepped aside to make way for a more welcoming personality. A beautiful and picture perfect lodge perched atop a bluff overlooking Bodega Bay, this place boasts sweeping waterfront views and is altogether dreamy. The rooms itself are fine and if not unique, they are simple and pretty, but the actual property is the thing here. Each room delivers a swoonful view, complete with fog bell sound effect in the distance. On property is an open-air pool with killer views, and a luxe little spa to boot, where we each had a yummy Cabernet Scrub and Hot Stone massage that lulled us both into dream-like states. Oh yeah. We ponied up to the Fireside Lounge that was hopping on this weekend eve, grabbed a few glasses of local Pinot and popped a squat around the outdoor fire pit. And… scene- day and dream complete.

Morning coffee on the terrace at Bodega Bay Lodge.

The next morning called for some Hitchock-inspired adventures. Hair up, sunglasses donned, I prepared to channel my best Tippi through the quaint little towns of Bodega and Bodega Bay. Bodega Bay is the little village that sits around the Bay, and a few miles south and one mile inland is the town of Bodega where the iconic schoolhouse and chapel sit. Bodega is about two blocks long and again, looks just like a movie set. No wonder Hitchcock chose this locale for his thriller, it was made for the movies. A quick and shameless obligatory selfie outside the chapel and schoolhouse, and we were on to the Roadhouse Cafe in Bodega Bay where the locals hold court.

had to 

The coffee situation at Roadhouse is top notch. I had a nutty tart that was a little piece of heaven, Tippi approves as her headshot proudly hangs on the cafe wall. After a quick drive around Bodega Bay to see just exactly where the Hitchcock blonde stiffly sat in that rowboat with her tightly fastened updo, slowly and silently making her way across the Bay to the bird-filled town, we ducked into Diekmann’s Bay- a colorful little grocery store worth a trip inside if even just to use the ATM and grab a bottle of water.

Tippi has clearly made the rounds with signed publicity stills appearing all over town.

For a stellar dining option, Bodega Bay is now the proud host of a Michelin-starred restaurant, Terrapin Creek Cafe. The locals clearly love this place as it is unassuming and casual with exceptional food to boot, but the out-of-towners are the ones that make Terrapin tick. Owned and operated by a husband and wife team, Andrew Truong and Liya Lin, the cafe is booked solid on the weekends. We didn’t have a chance to dine at Terrapin but I’m a firm believer in always leaving something to return to.

Tippi may have used this bayside path to board her little rowboat. Heels are not recommended but if you’re a Hitchcock blonde, they’re kind of a must. 

For all its charms, the seaside and rugged coastline are what people really flock to this part of the world for- the excellent food is a bonus. This little part of the coast is both haunting (again- thank you Sir Alfred) and calming. I overheard a few RV trippers talking about the boat trip they had taken the day before. “We chartered a 22 foot boat and spotted a 21 foot Great White, I mean he was nearly as big as the boat.” That quote kind of sums it all up for me. Maybe they did see a shark as big as their boat or maybe there’s just something about this beautifully dramatic part of the world that heightens the senses and calls for a tall tale or two. Cue the fog bell, it’s all so perfectly cinematic.

Eat:
Cowgirl Creamery (book a tour every Friday at 11am) Point Reyes Station
Tomales Bay Oyster Co., Marshall
Hog Island Oyster Co., Marshall
Terrapin Creek Cafe, Bodega Bay
Roadhouse Coffee, Bodega Bay
Sir and Star, Olema (just a bit south of Pt. Reyes and worth a stop if it’s on your route)

Shop:
Diekmann’s Bay Store , Bodega Bay
Point Reyes Station offers several charming locally owned stores along Hwy 1.

Stay:
Bodega Bay Lodge, Bodega Bay (doubles from $239)
Poet’s Loft, Tomales Bay (nightly from $275)

Hike:
Point Reyes National Seashore: great trails- long and short all throughout the Point Reyes National Seashore. You may spot a sea otter or two if you’re lucky.
Bodega Bay: beautiful walking paths all along the dunes and the seashore, great for bird watching, picnicking and taking in the salt air.

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