Happy Weekend dear readers. I hope you are all of to some fun adventuring. We are playing it low key this weekend. In fact, I cannot even think of what we have planned which is pretty great. The hubs and I are going to get out for a minute to a geeky wine tasting to test our blind tasting skills. A friend in the wine industry is hosting and it will be a $15/$50 party- attempting to guess which wine is worth what. It should prove a challenge because the host himself has some seriously refined tastebuds so the $15 vinos are sure to be tasty. Anyway, should be fun and it’s a good idea for a gathering.
What I’m Drinking:
Lately, in additon to my Orange crush, I’ve been sipping Italian reds. ‘Tis the season for a hearty red and not much floats my boat (or palate) more in the dead of winter than a few sips of some dirt & cherries (aka Tuscan reds). I opt for a Rosso di Montalcino as I’ve written about many a time before on le blog, the baby sister of its older and more refined sibling, Brunello. You can get a lot of bang for your buck here with the Rosso, it still ain’t cheap but it is delicioso.
A Few Stellar Bottles:
Altesino Rosso di Montalcino ’12- a steal for $23 from a wonderful Tuscan house run by a female (gotta love that). Their wines are all stupendo. Dirt and cherries finessed with a bit of wild herb perfume. So good.
Fonterenza Rosso di Montalcino ’11- this one you’ll want to put on your dining table at your next dinner party. The label’s so pretty, you have to show it off and maybe use it as a vase after that. Imported by the legendary Louis/Dressner, it’s simply awesome. Biodynamic, organic, natural and drinking like the land- it’ll put you right under that Tuscan sun and in Jan., that sounds pretty good. $36
Tenuta di Sesta Rosso di Montalcino ’12- not quite as complex as the bottles above but chewy and chock full of dark berries and dirt in the best way, it’s delicious and it’s $16.
A Few Things:
Let’s “cut to the chase”- a look at just what those old expressions really mean.
Need a breath of fresh air, pop over to Anna Watson Carl’s Instagram. She’s been in Sicily for 3 weeks, talk about swoonful.
7 things that will help you stop worrying, says Fast Company. Well, I’ve got #4 down pat. I don’t think I’ll be adopting #7 anytime soon. Tried it, hated it, but the others sound pretty good.
A hotel inspired by an amethyst. Interesting and pretty.
I made these Buttery Braised Leeks at the recommendation of my good pal Rashmi and they were a HUGE hit. She made them sans topping and was a fan. I could not resist the crispy, cheesy panko topping and it went over big time. I highly recommend.
Another friend recommends this NY Times Bok Choy recipe. I don’t have enough Bok Choy in my life in general, looking forward to trying this.
Mind your own, err- Make your own beeswax. So easy, even I can do this and makes a great present.
And while we’re talking homemade, how’s about some homemade Twix? Yes please.
Funny. I love Emily McDowell’s illustrations, just looking at this makes me happy. What do you consider exercise that’s probably not? I’ve personally always done butt crunches while waiting in line. Ha.
I don’t myself used LinkedIn, but for those of you that do, this looks helpful. A little zhush for your LinkedIn profile, why not?
I love these socks and who doesn’t always need a few more pairs of socks especially when they’re comfy, cute, the company gives back and there’s a discount code. Check it.
My pal Rashmi also turned me on to The Points Guy and by the by- you can hook yourself up with a ticket to Milan right about now for $399. Say What!
I will be honest, when noontime hits, I never know what the hell to make. Kitchen scraps for lunch? Ok, I’ll bite.
We’ve all seen the wood bead chandeliers like this one that might make you feel like you were living in ABC Home (if you had 15 foot ceilings and mammoth Broadway-facing windows) but alas, these babies are pricey. Enter the World Market’s version. It’s not nearly as fancy but for $269, it’s a pretty good compromise.
Speaking of chandeliers, I’ll take one of these please.
I should do this. What a great (and old school) way to keep track of memories together.
What’s IN and OUT this Spring according to Ms. Wintour. I don’t think anyone needs to worry about me sporting a single earring anytime soon, so I guess I’m in the clear.
The top 20 places to buy art online. I have to go with The Tappan Collective, they hail from my alma mater and my best friend Amy and I wish we had thought of this. Well, we sort of did back in the day, but we didn’t do it. Sigh. These ladies did though and I love their style.
Cin Cin ya’ll and Enjoy! Happy Weekending. Stay Warm.
What’s medium bodied, goes with pretty much everything and orange all over? A white wine treated like it’s red of course. Enter: orange wine.
So ok, orange wine isn’t exactly a new phenomenon in the wine world. In fact, it’s nothing close to new as it’s been around for centuries (it’s just white wine with its skins left on during maceration), but only in the last 10 years or so have the hipster somms and natural wine nerds glommed on to this deeply hued white. While the tangerine-tinged stuff has been sweeping the mean streets of NYC since the early aughts, topping the charts of the nameliest wine lists in the land, it’s still holding strong as it trickles down to our cities and towns west of the great Hudson. In fact, you’re hard pressed to dine at a top rated new restaurant anywhere without brushing elbows with at least one of these orange beauties.
And you know what? I’m not mad at ‘em. Nope. Hipster swirling or not, I don’t see orange wine as a short-lived trend, it’s white wine after all. What’s not to love? It’s delicious, usually terroir-driven, sunset-hued wine. So what’s so great about leaving the skins on apart from the pretty colors that turn out? Turns out, those skins can impart some interesting qualities like tannins, acid and beautiful aromas of orange peel and pith, citrus, flowers and honey. It’s could be the answer to what follows up the rosé rage, though it’s quite the opposite of rosé- instead of red grapes sacrificing their skins for a pretty pink pigment and a lighter bodied juice, these white grapes don’t lose immediately their cozy jackets, reaping bolder bodies.
If you haven’t heard of this, you might wonder why. The answer is because this orange crush will likely never be a mainstream movement. We’ve gotten so used to clean, clear and sparkly bright whites in this country, that anything darker and especially dark orange might be deemed as imperfect or heaven forbid, dirty, which is why most winemakers get those skins off lickety split. I love a little dirty orange in my glass especially when that means it’s full of flowers and perfumey wild herbs. Orange wine drinks like a hot summer day- something I gladly welcome in the dog days of winter but is quite suitable to drink year round. It can be your perfect little glass of wine- heartier than most whites but still clean and fresh. Perfect with fish or a roast chicken.
I recently had two beautiful bottles of orange wine at two of the DC dining scene’s shining stars. I took my foodie brother and his super foodie wife to the über foodie and critic’s darling, Rose’s Luxury and after waiting 3 1/2 hours for a table which I can honestly say, I have never done, I had more than high expectations for this joint. The truth is, we were convinced every bite and sip we took in the place was thoroughly worth that wait. The service is excellent and crazy friendly, I felt like I was in Austin for a minute, which is always a welcome feeling. The food is fun, delicious and experimental (popcorn soup anyone?) without being annoying. You get the sense that chef Aaron Silverman is just having a blast- as it should be. It’s real and authentic, and cozy and intimate, and delicious- enough adjectives? In short, the hype is well deserved. To boot, your receipt reads like your best friend’s note passed across the classroom with item lines like, “1 Side of Awesome”. And the vino- well let’s just say that the wine list is so smart, well-stacked, and fun, I honestly felt the urge to crumple it up and eat it. But back to the orange vino on the table. The bottle that we partook of at Rose’s was from a monastery in Lazio, made by the hands of Sisters under the guidance of a legend- it was beautifully feminine with lots of wild flowers and herbs, honeyed and hearty.
What We Drank:
Monastero Suore Cistercensi “Coenobium Ruscum Bianco”, IGT ’11
-This beauty is a bold blend of Trebbiano, Malvasia and Verdichio- it paired well with pretty much everything we ate. I recommend it with anything short of a stick to your ribs beef dish.
-Made in a monastery by the Sisters of the Cistercian Order, this wine is shepherded by master winemaker Paolo Bea’s son, Giampiero, a master in his own right. These guys have been churning out some of the wildest and tastiest juice with killer labels to boot for decades. Read all about the family in Neal Rosenthal’s compelling “Reflections of a Wine Merchant”- the book that turned me from a drinker of wine to a student (and an even heartier drinker) of wine. Their juice is not for the faint of heart, or for the daintiest of palates, it’s hearty and packed with loads natural acidity, a hint of nuttiness and plenty of citrus and honey. The soil at the monastery is volcanic so drink the volcano, and savor its mineral divinity.
CHECK IT: get it here for $27 . A crazy deal that will float you and your pals’ boats.
On to the next orange adventure: last night, my local dining group of gals and I sampled the fare at DC’s The Red Hen. Like at Rose’s, the food also lived up to its hype although it is less playful here than at Rose’s. The Red Hen is solid and delicious. The char-grilled octopus, smoked ricotta crostini, black ink squid linguine with a kick, and toasted hazelnut-crusted custard were the standouts. The service was excellent and the wine, again, big win on the orange wine front.
What We Drank:
Vei Di Romans Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy, ’12
One of the prettiest little wines I’ve had in a long while. Like drinking a bouquet of fresh flowers doused with a hint of perfume and a juicy bite of acid- truly a beautiful food wine and pretty enough to savor on its own.
-Made with 100% Pinot Grigio, this wine allows the grape to shine instead of diluting it to an expected taste, it’s loaded with lime and lemon citrus, floral, and pretty as a picture.
-Drink this with fish, pasta, lean meats and veggies, it’s heaven with some smoked ricotta crostini topped with brown butter balsamic and truffled honey- one of my favorite Red Hen dishes. Seriously, think about those ingredients- nirvana on a piece of toast.
CHECK IT: Get it here for $35. This one is pretty enough to impress even your most hipster-wary pals, they will quickly jump on the orange wine bandwagon.
Orange Wines can be tough to find but you’re sure to spot them on any wine list that is in-the-know and your trusted wine purveyor should have a handful of great orange wines to recommend. Once pretty much relegated to Italy, Slovenia and Georgia, orange wine can now be found all over the globe.
It’s a brand new year and I’m really a lot less upset about the end of the holiday season than usual. I’m jazzed for a clean, bright and fresh new start. Of course when I’m in the humdrum of my daily routine I don’t feel so fresh and so clean but still- it’s a new year and with a new year brings new ideas, new opportunities, new friends, new bites, new sips and new experiences. Bring it. I’m pretty much psyched for every moment I can get.
I’m not making a big resolution this year mostly because I never really see it through- lose 5 pounds- whatevs. I’ll do it if I do it. No, mostly I’m all about the fun this year. I just want to be present and have a blast with my kiddos, my family and friends. I’m inviting the fun people, let’s make some memories.
The first day of the year proved to be pretty predictable for me as I set to my calendar to start planning parties, getaways and full blown vacations. Sound trite? Maybe but all this planning business around food, friends and family is my happy maker. My 40th is this year and I’m taking a much awaited trip with my best girls. 7 of us from college, we are all turning forty within the year so we’ll celebrate together though we are geographically far apart. We span the globe living in Hong Kong, San Fran, Vail, New Jersey, Connecticut, Indiana and DC. We try to get together at least once a year but it’s rare that we can all gather together in the same place, this will be special. We cannot decide on where to go. It will be late July and we all have kids, so we can’t get away for too long (that means staying in country) and we probably don’t want to go anywhere south of the the Mason-Dixon line to avoid the heat factor. We are going back and forth- if you have any big ideas, please post them below. We’re thinking Northern Cali. or Nantucket…
What I’m Drinking:
This is E11even Wine. An awesome Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir for under $20. My new favorite from badass winemaker Andrew Murray. I had a glass of this last week at the famed Rose’s Luxury here in DC- by the way, we waited a whopping 3 hours for our table and I have to say, it was well worth it. The wine list is so good, I wanted to crumble it up into a ball and eat it. This was a great addition to our meal and a new fave plus it’s named after a line in This is Spinal Tap. My hubs and I modeled our 11 day rule after that very scene (we try not to be away from each other for more than 11 days at a time- we’ve kept to it in our 6 years of marriage). But I digress, this stuff is great.
This Coq Au Riesling. I love a good chicken and I love a good Riesling. Win. Win.
This Poutine. French Fries and Gravy with Cheese to boot? Come on now.
This Blood Orange Shrub. I’m making this for my next dinner party- the better to awaken my guests’ palates with, my dear.
This Movie. I’m a big Rob Marshall fan- the guy is masterly in his musical theater ways. I think his Into the Woods is aces, plus I just love listening to those Sondheim lyrics. Talk about masterly. Die hard Sondheim fans have their panties in a twist about the changes made, but guys- it’s the film adaptation not another stage production. I think he done good. I laughed, I cried- it’s good stuff.
This Food Passport. I’m stealing this idea pronto. I love lists. The only thing I like more than a list is a Passport- so this is a duh.
This Wine Gifting Idea. Who doesn’t want a cute tea towel with their bottle of vino? Not just for any old host, this one’s for the one with the most.
This City. Because it’s always a good idea. My good pal Alana Stone just put out her Analogue Guide to the great city and she knows the deal. You bet I’ll be looking for some last minute deals to the City of Lights- winter is a good and cheap(er) time to visit.
Cin Cin and a very good start of the year to you!
I do this post every year and honestly, it doesn’t vary much. What we winos want is the good stuff, not the bric-a-brac gift shop schlock of keychains, charms and ridiculously complicated wine openers. Nope, we want wine keys that are honest and good with maybe a stylish little case to boot (because why not!?), farmer fizz (aka grower champagne- because who doesn’t?), good stemware and maybe a fun set of blind tasting glasses to better our tasting skills with or just entertain to our pals. So here it goes… we’re a little late in the game (read: super last minute here) so get to it if you’ve got a wino in your list whose name has yet to be crossed off. Cheers.
5. Farmer Fizz- a great bottle of grower bubbly is always the best idea ever. Vilmart & Cie is one of my favorites. Other go-to growers: Lanson, Guy Larmandier, Eric Rodez, Andre Clouet, Egly-Ouriet and Jacques Selosse.
6. No-Spill Tiny Picnic Table- for when said wino is actually at said picnic- so that delicious juice won’t spill on the grass. Let’s do this right people.
7. Reflections from a Wine Merchant: tales of Italian winemakers tasting in their centuries old cellars, French fathers and sons carrying on the family tradition, and how some people can get a whiff of wet wild hare in their glass. This book will make you want to quit your job and run off to the mountains of Italy to make wine and live off the land. Any self-respecting wino will love it.
9. R. Croft Blind Tasting Glasses- the better to test our tastebuds with. Added bonus- whip these out and you’ve got yourself a shindig. People love a blind tasting, winos and pseudo-winos alike.
Ahh- the holidays. A new week of merriment. A new week of Christmas cookies and peppermint mochas. A new week of firsts for my little ones. We watched the classic Rankin & Bass Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer for the first time last night and I have to say, Santa is kind of an assh*$e in that version. I hadn’t remembered it that way but he’s pretty self-involved. It’s funny when you find yourself looking at all of your favorite holiday to-do’s through your little one’s eyes- much is revealed.
Childhood nostalgia gone awry aside, I’ve been meaning to share a few tidbits with you all since we last met. After Anna Watson Carl and I hosted our Bubbly and Bites gathering at the darling Red Barn Mercantile, we ventured out into the Virginia vines to explore the juice making that is currently underway at Rutger de Vink’s famed RdV Vineyard. I have partaken of their 2 blends, the Lost Mountain and the Rendezvous and already counted myself in as a big fan (I included their Rendezvous in the lineup for our Anthology entertaining story), but had yet to visit the winery or vineyard. In a word- it’s stunning. The detail and thought that has gone into building the winery and planting the vines is truly commendable. RdV sports a cozy and rustic-meets-minimal tasting lounge. I say lounge because they have foregone the traditional tasting bar for a more relaxing den complete with cowhide, hand-crafted walnut stools and antlers over the roaring fireplace. The vibe at RdV feels exclusive without being so. Anyone is welcome, as long as you are cool with paying the $50 tour and tasting fee which I say is worth it as it includes a lengthy tour led by a Lucchessi boat-wearing, sassy tour guide/gal Friday at the winery, and a glass of Pol Roger bubbly upon arrival. Guests are welcome to stay as long as they please and while away a winter’s day in front of the fire with lovely views of the vineyards that were sure to be a tough grow. de Vink knew as much which is why he set his sights on the land. The rocky earth would indeed provide the perfect growing conditions for Bordeaux varietals that beg for impossible to farm anything but grapes soil. I’m sold. His stuff is great and he’s got top notch Bordeaux blender Eric Boissentot blending for RdV as well so they’re in good hands. If you live in or are visiting the DC area and appreciate good vino, make it a must-do on your list. Sign up for a tour/tasting here.
The other newsworthy tidbit I wanted to share was that the hubs and I were lucky enough to procure another invitation to the Kennedy Center Honors this year. There were no White House cocktails in the mix this year, but the show and gala were plenty. I mention this because the show itself was so exceptional that I highly recommend you all either set your DVR’s or watch it broadcast on CBS Dec. 30th. I’ve instructed all of my ballet students to tune in because Tiler Peck of the NYC Ballet gives perhaps the best performance of Balanchine’s Fascinatin’ Rhythm to date in honor of famed dancer and Kennedy Center Honoree, Patricia McBride. Not for nothing, my hubby agrees as does his dad- both of which have seen the variation danced dozens of times by different ballerinas including the magnificent Ms. McBride herself- that her performance is far and away the best they have ever seen. Tiler Peck KILLS it. Even if you are not a big dance fan- do yourself a big favor and watch her dance- she performs the solo with enthusiasm and technical prowess matched by unbelievable musicality and theatricality. I’m going out on a limb here and saying that I do believe Ms. Tiler Peck may be my favorite female dancer of all time (well her and Cyd Charisse). She has a way of not just executing difficult steps with effortless grace, but she’s got something much more important and elusive- she’s got moxie my friends- and that seals the deal for me. Oh, and Lady Gaga is pretty fierce tributing Sting- not to mention The Boss- say what! Just watch it, it’s pretty great.
Donning our dapperest at the Honors.
And a few other things:
-First things first: I’m all caught up with Serial- AHHHHH! Now what? I can’t believe how good this investigative journalism is- or maybe I’m just a sucker for Sarah Koenig. I dig that there are 5 million viewers trying to solve this crime all huddled around their SmartPhones or laptops, not exactly the picture of a Fireside Chat, but I love that people are listening to radio- a medium that still allows for our own brains to fill in the holes. The last episode airs this Thursday, if you have not fully succumbed to this phenomenon, do yourself a favor and Pod it up.
-We popped open a special bottle of Brunello brought back by my brother and sis-in-law from the Mother Country. This one’s special because the grapes are harvested to Mozart. That’s right, those lucky little vines are listening to Wolfgang day and night courtesy of several loud speakers set up in the vineyards- an on-going experiment in fellowship with the University of Florence and Pisa. Does it make a big difference? Only time will tell- this bottle was a bit young (and in truth, opened mistakenly by my husband as I was hoping to cellar it for a few years but c’est la vie) but I love the concept and it was complex and delicious. Next time I find myself in Montalcino, I’m hightailing it to Il Paradiso di Frassina.
-If you’re looking for a great sugar cookie recipe for those Christmas cookies- I’m loving this one from Food & Wine. We made it this morning. My only adaptation was putting in a full teaspoon of good salt- I like a bit more salt in my cookies.
-We had the great pleasure of sipping some pink Krug this past weekend. We took my mom to Grape and Bean’s annual Champagne tasting where we were in for a treat. Not just one glass but two glasses of Krug were served- the Grand Cuvee and Rosé, not to mention the very tasty Janisson & Fils rosé brut and two grower champagnes of which I failed to jot down. That’s what happens when you get a bit of the bubbly in ya. One of the highlights of the evening beyond the bubbles, was Matt Carroll, a local Somm and current Master Somm candidate. If you’re shrugging your shoulders, just take a look at this doc to see what he’s putting himself through. He was fabulous, smart and most importanly, approachable.
-If you’re looking for a new Insta feed to follow, look no further than my pal Vina’s feed. She’s the local foodie and head honcho of all things social media over at the Eat Good Food Group- the mecca of good eats in Old Town, so she knows her stuff and takes pretty pictures.
-And speaking of starlets, it’s always the right time for an Audrey Hepburn movie. If you’re queue is short on Audrey, here are a few more to add to it.
That piece of California coastline just north of San Francisco and south of Mendocino- its mystique has called to filmmakers, foodies, seafarers, writers and travelers alike for ages, and I finally had the perfect opportunity to see (and taste) for myself just what all the hubbub is about. I recently spent the day in Sonoma working on a winemaking story with photographer, Amy Dickerson. On the way up, we decided to make a few pit stops to investigate, explore and well… eat- let’s be honest. In truth, two of my stops had been a long time coming, sitting on my personal Hit List for years- a pilgrimage to The Birds‘ Bodega Bay, and an authentic California coastal oyster adventure- knocking off two birds with one stone. Boom. I love it when that happens.
This fog-filled and rocky coastline is dramatic, a bit eerie (thank you Mr. Hitchcock) and seductive without being overt about it. It’s more Adele than Minaj, if you will- it’s not really in your face but it lingers. Its landscape is still Mother Nature totally showing off, just not quite as dramatically as she does a bit farther south, but somehow its call is even stronger. California coastline aside, I knew oysters were responsible for some of the enticement as well, but had yet to try them in their hometown, and as a sucker for anything Hitchcockian, the cinematic backdrop of Bodega Bay is a must stop. Beachside at Bodega Bay.
Finding last minute lodging during the harvest in Sonoma County proved to be impossible, and Amy and I were forced to board outside of wine country proper. Ding- a light bulb- this is it, my chance to visit Bodega Bay- Tippi is calling. And on the way up just happens to be the tiny town of Marshall, California host to two of the most famous oyster joints in the country. Also a sucker (quite literally) for oysters, the idea that the twain shall meet had me pretty pumped.
Touchdown at SFO, car rented and off and over the Bay Bridge we went. Making our way up the coast, we decided to really pack it all in and include a third pilgrimage making this a complete trifecta, a trinity if you will of all things food and film fantastic. First stop: the cheese mecca that is Cowgirl Creamery in charming Point Reyes Station. Just under an hour and a half from the airport in this quaint little town sits the Cowgirl cheese factory and shop where the goodness began. As I stepped out of our rental, I could instantly smell the salt air- oh hello California coast, how happy you make me. We made our way in to the Creamery and embarked on a mini tasting. Choosing a few Cowgirl hallmarks, namely the Red Hawk, Mt. Tam and Fromage Blanc (which is insanely good with blueberry jam on a baguette) and an other-worldly stinky cheese from the local town of Nicasio, we picked up some freshly baked bread and continued our journey up the coast.
Where the magic happens at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station.
Next stop: the oyster mecca that is Marshall, just ten twisty miles north of Pt. Reyes. This little area is one for the books and the photo albums- an absolute dream and a must for anyone that loves a coastline and an oyster- not exactly a tough bill to fill. But even if you don’t love oysters, be sure to make a pit stop in Marshall, but be on the lookout, blink and you’ll miss it. Scenic beyond belief, its natural and rugged beauty begs for a glass of sparkling wine just to celebrate its existence. There are lots of little local seafood shacks around these parts, but the two most famous for its oysters are Tomales Bay Oyster Co. and Hog Island Oyster Co.
We made our first stop at Tomales Bay’s self-shucking picnic spot. Talk about ambience. It is all at once rustic and rugged, charming, quaint and drop dead gorgeous, nestled on the shell-filled shores of Tomales Bay where a quick whiff brings in the perfume of fresh salty air and charring oysters on the grill. We wanted a look-see but I won’t lie, I’m no shucker. This place is for pros, you can borrow the staff’s knives to shuck, but you need to come armed with vino and anything else you want to nosh on. They are serious about the rules here, the grills are solely for the oysters, no meat please, and if you are down for this sort of adventure, I cannot imagine a better spot in the world. Just pony up to the counter to purchase your bivalves and set yourself up. We weren’t prepared with a picnic, so we made like Clark Griswald taking in the Grand Canyon, and promptly took off for Hog Island Oyster Co. After traveling all day, we couldn’t wait to sit down with some great vino and devour our already shucked oysters. Tomales Bay Oyster Co. also owns the Marshall Store where you don’t have to work for your dinner, but Hog Island was calling our name.
The picturesque picnic grounds at Tomales Bay Oyster Co.
Next stop: Hog Island Oyster Co.- cue the harkening angel chorus and spotlight. This little spot sits on a half moon-sized piece of land that lies just over the rocks and shells leading down to the bay, where fisherman are literally docking their small boats and heading up to shore with their daily catch in tow. The setting resembles a more rugged Cabot Cove and I felt a little like Jessica Fletcher, minus the murders, but full of the intrigue, curiosity and investigation. The people are friendly and everybody there- staff and patrons alike- clearly knows how to have a good time. This is the good life, folks. Saddle up to the big boat that doubles as the Oyster bar and order up both the raw and Chipotle-Bourbon BBQ oysters (oh my Gawd! -and this from a girl who always prefers her bivalves plain and simply raw), a few glasses of Iron Horse’s Wedding Cuvee’s Sparkling Wine (when in Rome, er, the Sonoma Coast) and prepare to be viscerally impressed.
The view from Hog Island Oyster Co.’s picnic tables.
The Marshall outpost is the Hog Island homebase that has spurred the San Francisco and Napa outposts where locals and tourists alike regularly line up around the block to sample the goods. Fresh from the source, here’s why…
Raw oysters, Chipotle Bourbon BBQ Oysters and a glass of Muscadet- heaven.
We arrived at Hog’s Island around 4pm, a little before they make last call, and were lucky to snag the last picnic table and get in a few rounds of oysters and drinks before we were politely called out as the last diners standing (or sitting in our case), and very nicely asked to promptly get our show on the road, but not before making fast friends with the locals and finding out the history behind Hog Island itself.- The eucalyptus tree-filled island sits in the middle of Tomales Bay. It briefly housed hundreds of pigs as a result of a bizarre incident in the 1870s, when the barge the pigs were traveling on collapsed. There are no pigs on the island now, it’s nothing but a pretty piece of rock as it has been donated to the Point Reyes National Seashore. After much ogling and “mmmm”-ing, in this perfect little picturesque movie set-looking cove, we finally dragged ourselves away from its beauty, plumper in the belly and leaner in the wallet (it ain’t cheap here, but for my money, the quality of the food, the wine and the view are well worth the price) to trade in for yet another magnificent bay still farther north.
A foghorn bell sounds in the distance here at Bodega Bay.
Last Stop: Bodega Bay, 22 miles north of Marshall. Driving up the meandering coastline as it winds its way north, the fog seems to settle in a bit lower, creating even more of a mystique around this Marine-layered coastline. That delicious fog is what makes those inland grapes so good, and what makes this patch of real estate so interesting, and dare I say a tad bit spooky. Maybe it’s just the images of “The Birds” I have forever emblazoned on my mind. Probably. As we drove up to the Bodega Bay Lodge, the eeriness quickly stepped aside to make way for a more welcoming personality. A beautiful and picture perfect lodge perched atop a bluff overlooking Bodega Bay, this place boasts sweeping waterfront views and is altogether dreamy. The rooms itself are fine and if not unique, they are simple and pretty, but the actual property is the thing here. Each room delivers a swoonful view, complete with fog bell sound effect in the distance. On property is an open-air pool with killer views, and a luxe little spa to boot, where we each had a yummy Cabernet Scrub and Hot Stone massage that lulled us both into dream-like states. Oh yeah. We ponied up to the Fireside Lounge that was hopping on this weekend eve, grabbed a few glasses of local Pinot and popped a squat around the outdoor fire pit. And… scene- day and dream complete.
Morning coffee on the terrace at Bodega Bay Lodge.
The next morning called for some Hitchock-inspired adventures. Hair up, sunglasses donned, I prepared to channel my best Tippi through the quaint little towns of Bodega and Bodega Bay. Bodega Bay is the little village that sits around the Bay, and a few miles south and one mile inland is the town of Bodega where the iconic schoolhouse and chapel sit. Bodega is about two blocks long and again, looks just like a movie set. No wonder Hitchcock chose this locale for his thriller, it was made for the movies. A quick and shameless obligatory selfie outside the chapel and schoolhouse, and we were on to the Roadhouse Cafe in Bodega Bay where the locals hold court.
had to
The coffee situation at Roadhouse is top notch. I had a nutty tart that was a little piece of heaven, Tippi approves as her headshot proudly hangs on the cafe wall. After a quick drive around Bodega Bay to see just exactly where the Hitchcock blonde stiffly sat in that rowboat with her tightly fastened updo, slowly and silently making her way across the Bay to the bird-filled town, we ducked into Diekmann’s Bay- a colorful little grocery store worth a trip inside if even just to use the ATM and grab a bottle of water.
Tippi has clearly made the rounds with signed publicity stills appearing all over town.
For a stellar dining option, Bodega Bay is now the proud host of a Michelin-starred restaurant, Terrapin Creek Cafe. The locals clearly love this place as it is unassuming and casual with exceptional food to boot, but the out-of-towners are the ones that make Terrapin tick. Owned and operated by a husband and wife team, Andrew Truong and Liya Lin, the cafe is booked solid on the weekends. We didn’t have a chance to dine at Terrapin but I’m a firm believer in always leaving something to return to.
Tippi may have used this bayside path to board her little rowboat. Heels are not recommended but if you’re a Hitchcock blonde, they’re kind of a must.
For all its charms, the seaside and rugged coastline are what people really flock to this part of the world for- the excellent food is a bonus. This little part of the coast is both haunting (again- thank you Sir Alfred) and calming. I overheard a few RV trippers talking about the boat trip they had taken the day before. “We chartered a 22 foot boat and spotted a 21 foot Great White, I mean he was nearly as big as the boat.” That quote kind of sums it all up for me. Maybe they did see a shark as big as their boat or maybe there’s just something about this beautifully dramatic part of the world that heightens the senses and calls for a tall tale or two. Cue the fog bell, it’s all so perfectly cinematic.
Hike: Point Reyes National Seashore: great trails- long and short all throughout the Point Reyes National Seashore. You may spot a sea otter or two if you’re lucky. Bodega Bay: beautiful walking paths all along the dunes and the seashore, great for bird watching, picnicking and taking in the salt air.
In the words of L.L. Cool J, “I’m going back to Cali”- even if it is just for 48 hours. I have been California dreaming for, well… forever really. I’ve always fancied myself a California girl, though I’m really much more of an East Coast gal, the Golden State has my heart. In my early twenties, I lived in LaLa Land for a few winsome years and always find myself harkening back to those glory days of unbelievable scenic and inspiring spontaneous road trips peppered with great food, wine and that only-in-Cali laid-back lifestyle. Of course, my regular day to day was not so swoonful, as it most always involved me feeling like I might as well be in an armored suit at my driving wheel as I fought the ongoing battle of LA traffic for what felt like (and I think was in fact) hours at a time, traversing over canyons, trying to make the left turn light and sitting still on freeways for eons. I mean let’s be real. But oh California- despite your cluttered congestion, how I miss you so. I wish you weren’t so far away but as I write from my window seat on one of Sir Richard Branson’s airliners peeking at the rugged mountains subtly forming and growing taller and taller with each passing minute, California-here I come, right back where I (sort of) started from.
I’m venturing out west not just for fun (though it undoubtedly will involve lots of that), but for an exciting story that I am working on with my talented photographer friend, Amy Dickerson. It involves vino as you might guess, and is shaping up to be an adventurous , colorful and action-packed weekend. We are due to hit the heart of Sonoma Valley at the peak of the crush, I cannot wait to see, smell and taste those grapes. I am looking forward to sharing the details once we have sussed them all out. I am also chomping at the bit to get me a piece of that California coastline and because of the harvest (despite the recent earthquake), we couldn’t actually find any lodging remotely affordable, or really even at all in wine country proper so much to my delight, we will be bunking in Bodega Bay. I have always wanted to visit, mostly because I am a sucker for a seaside town and fancy myself a bit like Jessica Fletcher in that way- looking for my own Cabot Cove to call home. Throw in the fun fact that Bodega Bay plays backdrop to Hitchcock’s “The Birds” and well- it’s a done deal. On the way up from San Fran, we’ll be making lots of pit stops tasting and slurping our way up the coast. Cowgirl Creamery’s original Pt. Reyes outpost, The Tomales Bay Oyster Co. and Hog Island Oyster Co. have been calling my name for years and I have yet to patronize. Today is the day my friends, I’m pretty psyched. If I’m lucky enough to spot a sea otter, it might just put me over the edge.
What are you all up to this weekend? The fall festivals are starting to ignite all over the place which makes me and my little ones so happy, what’s shaking in your part of the woods? Cheers to a Happy Weekend!
A Few Fun Things from around the interwebs:
“It’s decorative gourd season, motherf#*$ers”- this is hilarious.
In honor of the Scots, almost-secession aside., these look pretty great.
I have been searching high and low for a groovy fall doormat, nothing too gimmicky but just something fun. Wow- what a shortage. I should go in to the doormat business. I did find this one boasting my favorite fall flower in a big print- score.
This is a terrific kickstarter campaign to end the months of isolation that kids with cancer face and bring them back into a world they can share with other children.
I’m loving this new print studio for photo albums. Easy to print from your phone and pretty to look at.
This crunchy kale, fontina, butternut squash, pomegranate seed-topped pizza looks ridiculous. I’m making this pronto.
Once a Yankees fan, always a Yankees fan. Combine Sinatra with Jeter and you get near perfection. This is a pretty great sendoff.
My new favorite roast chicken recipe. It’s from Thomas Keller and it’s easy? Sold. Thanks Rashmi!
I’m tempted to paint this on my laundry room wall. Thanks Am!
Happy Weekend dear readers. I love this shot of Stella Maria Baer’s work in progress above. The paint and colors are so chomp-worthy, I seriously just want to eat that entire composition. She’s a Southwest artist living in the Northeast and her work is genius (and P.S., her instagram feed is moody and dreamily delicious, I look forward to her gorgeous posts every day). But back to that work in progress thing- it’s sort of what life’s all about isn’t it. Some food (or paint) for thought.
Well folks, it’s been a hectic week over here in good ole VA., the apex being a full-on attack by the residents of an underground Yellow Jacket nest in our background. After my son stepped on said nest, my husband sprung into survival mode as the wasps swarmed and chased them all around the backyard. He managed to get the kiddos into the house with only a few stings, but those few stings were some humdingers. I was not here when the nest was rattled but saw the aftermath- clothes strewn everywhere and my poor daughter’s eyes nearly swollen shut. But all is well and on we go. Just another day in the Virginia suburbs. Who knew suburbia could be so action-packed?
In any case, we are gearing up for a restful (well, as restful as we can get here with toddlers) weekend. My niece is blowing into the ‘burbs later this afternoon, straight from her high powered internship with a New Mexican senator on Capitol Hill. I can’t wait to hear what she thinks of Washington. What must such an adulterated town to do such a mildly adulterated young adult? She went to high school in NYC so she can’t be too scandalized, we’ll see.
What I’m Drinking:
I’m digging Loire reds for this time of year. The Loire Valley is such a steal and some of my all-time favorites come from its flinty terroir. This is my new favorite. We carry a more recent vintage at Waterfront and it’s killer- lots of zippy acid and nice fruit on the palate. Lean and mean and perfect for a hot summer night. Drink it with seared salmon, mushroom and goat cheese pizza or turkey burgers- it’s not picky and goes great with almost anything provided your dish is not too terribly heavy or too dainty and light.
A Few Things:
I cannot wait for this. Meryl Streep as The Witch in the movie version of Sondheim’s Into the Woods? Musicals into movies are tricky but with Rob Marshall at the helm, my hopes are high.
I left my car lights on all night and had to figure out how to jump start the car the next morning. This came in pretty handy- gotta love the interweb.
In this day in Instagram age, I can’t believe it’s so hard to find simple 4×4 frames. If anyone has an answer, do tell. I’m at a loss.
My friend Amy just turned me on to the legendary Betty Fussell and I just ordered her memoir, Kitchen Wars. I cannot wait to dig in.
And ok, I finally gave in to this Magic Bullet contraption that’s sweeping our smoothie-crazed nation and you know what? I love it. It’s so easy and I don’t have to fret about my kids getting their greens, they love these smoothies. Especially when I freeze them and make Green Pops. They love a popsicle (who doesn’t) even if it is laden with kale and baby spinach. My concoctions actually look kind of like these- they are so pretty and taste so nice. It’s not cheap but you literally just throw stuff in a cup, blend it up and go. I’m kind of in love. This is the one I have- totally worth the dough.
I love these portraits. Luis Conejo’s work is sort of like John Currin meets Disney animator. Awesome.
A cute (and easy!) idea for a photo backdrop at my next dinner party from the designlovefest team.
10 Cute Kids’ Rooms. It helps if you live in a loft space with 20 foot walls and giant windows but still…
And these Hockney-inspired children’s portraits are pretty great too.
This time of year brings lots of travel (yay!) and sometimes a night or two or three at a pal’s place. I like to come bearing gifts for my Host with the Most, especially those I wouldn’t buy for myself- tiny cake stands anyone?
A Perfect Picnic Basket- come on, who wouldn’t want one of these? Especially one this cute- from tastemaker and blogger extraordinaire Sarah Sherman Samuel, comes her new line of artisanal entertaining goodness. Everything is deliciously lovely and I am always partial to a picnic basket.
Some Coastal Coasters- bold and graphic, these hand-painted, non-toxic ceramic babies are the recent collaboration of BottleStock Shop’s Whitney Adams and Rissa Sandman. Evocative of a summer day at bay or just a cool addition to your host’s bar cart. P.S.: She’s having a 30% off sale today on everything but these Coastal Coasters and there are some fancy things to be had. I for one love her corkscrews. Code: HUMPDAY
A Classic Candle- the tried and true hostess gift. Can’t. Go. Wrong. And this one boasts a stylish exterior with an on-sale price tag to boot.
An Awesome Apron- for the stylish cook who’s more French linen chic than Betty Crocker ruffled. I can’t stand how awesome this apron is.
A Tie-Dyed Towel- this Turkish towel is styled up a notch with its tie-dyed detail. The perfect gift as it’s small enough to wear as a scarf but still big enough to use as a beach towel, sarong or wrap. From my favorite shop in Alexandria at Red Barn Mercantile.
A Stylish Soap Dish- Not your Grandma’s soap dish (or maybe it is if she’s into Mid-Century bric a brac), this brass wire beauty will thrill its new owner with its clean lines each time he/she scrubs up.
A Cheeky Print- because who doesn’t want a pretty watercolor of a strutting leopard in their home? If your host is fabulous, he/she will love illustrator to the fashion Gods (Hermés anyone?), Caitlin McGauley’s print. If you’re concerned that it may not “go” with your host’s decor, worry not as Jenna Lyons famously put it, “as far as I’m concerned, leopard’s a neutral.”
A Tiny Cake Stand- if your host is truly the most when it comes to baked goods, he/she will love this mini jadeite cake stand. And even if they suck at baking, you’ll never tell and they’ll still love it.
Some Swanky Stirrers- a great host is a master of the cocktail party and what better tool to help one further master that fête-ing art than this set of glass stirrers. They’ll feel like Sinatra, and what’s a better gift than that!
A Punchy Throw- again, something I wouldn’t buy for myself but would love to receive. This one’s sunny, soft and boldly graphic- sure to punch up any room.
And if all else fails, my tried and true gift for my Host with the Most- a great bottle of bubbly or rosé or even better- bubbly rosé. I recently had this one at my birthday dinner at DC’s Proof which boasts a beyond-killer wine list, including $18,000 bottles of DRC- sigh (who is actually ordering that- talk about a baller move). But honestly, this Legret NV pink bubbly was one of the very best I have ever imbibed and that’s saying something. Get it here, your Host will be psyched and while you’re at it, get a bottle for yourself too. Traveling can be hard work- pop it open when you arrive home. Cin Cin!
Blue skies, weathered and wine-stained barrels, ripening vines- there’s nothing sweeter than the sight (and smell) of an impending wine harvest. A good old-fashioned, down-and-dirty-fingers-in-the-vines-harvest is something every budding somm should experience. It’s important to get out of the cellar and into the vineyard- Wine Appreciation 101. I worked my first harvest in Virginia at Paradise Springs vineyard. Well, sort of. The harvest took all of a grueling hour, not exactly the grapes of wrath, but this East Coast vineyard is young and hopeful, boasting a small but bountiful little plot of vines. There were enough of us working the harvest that within the hour, we had clipped that Cab Franc flat off the vines. I didn’t stick around for the full harvest experience including the crushing, the pressing, the fermenting, the barreling, etc., so it don’t know if I can really count it as a true harvest experience. Yes, I took a knee and clipped those delicate grapes to my beaming heart’s content, but truly working a harvest is much more than a few hours in the dirt.
Enter retired showgirl turned superstar sommelier and my pal (from our dancing days together), Sabra Lewis. A somm at the wino-darling restaurant, The NoMad, Sabra clipped California grapes this past fall with the in-crowd and her adventures were so dreamy, (at least on her Instagram account), I had to ask if she would share her first crush with us. She said yes.
But first- a bit about Sabra:
Sabra, I love that you worked your first harvest with Abe Schoener and Rajat Parr- the rockiest rockstar winemakers right now in California. The whole experience seems so incredible. What was it like physically working the harvest?
It was challenging, really a lot of manual labor that my body wasn’t used to.
How did you choose the winemakers that you worked with?
I worked with Abe Schoener at Scholium Project and Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman at Sandhi Wines and Domaine de la Cote. Abe uses more natural methods of production and runs a very small crew who are all very involved in all aspects of winemaking from choosing the vineyards to the actual winemaking in and around Napa Valley. I wanted to learn some of his winemaking philosophies and also pick his brain about making unconventional wines in such a famous wine region. He really knows and understands the landscape there and is a true trailblazer for experimentation in a very homogenized landscape.
I wanted to work with Raj and Sashi down in Santa Rita Hills and learn from their Burgundian winemaking techniques. They have a bigger production but still run a fairly hand-off approach really modeled after Burgundy. They are also trailblazing the idea of “balance” in their wines and started a movement in California called IPOB, along with Jasmine Hirsch favoring modest alcohol and oak levels.
Yes! Exactly what us winos are always wanting more of- lower alcohol and less imparted oak make for prettier and tastier wines. Ok, give me your top 5 reasons everyone should work a harvest at some point in their life.
1. Working a harvest gives you a huge appreciation for each bottle of wine you open. There is so so much hard work and investment before there are any monetary returns, if ever.
2. You really get to understand the winemakers passion and artistry through what they do. Often times there is a great sense of family history and cultural significance as well, especially in the old world.
3. When you work a harvest, you start to understand agriculture and why terroir matters. Most of us city folk have little experience with that!
4. You really get a sense of how many variables there are that translate to both minor and major differences in the final bottle.
5. You get a head-to-toe understanding of the life of a bottle. For example, being able to see fermentation in action and taste the wine from beginning to end: tasting the berry on the vine to tasting the juice during mid-fermentation to malo to finished wine in barrel to bottled wine at various stages of development. It’s eye-opening and you really get a sense of a wine’s “life” that way.
Sold. What’s a typical day like during harvest -when do you wake up, and what exactly do you do?
EARLY! If you are helping to pick, then it’s best to pick before sunrise when the grapes are cooler. If you are pressing or making wine, it gets really hot out, so you are more productive in the early hours. During harvest, most winemakers barely sleep. There is just so much to do and coordinate between picking decisions and the logistics of receiving grapes and starting to press- a lot of pieces in the puzzle. When there is down time it’s all about cleaning the crush pad and work space. Wineries have to be immaculate!
What do you all drink after work?
BEER! There is nothing more refreshing than a crisp beer after a long day in the vineyard or a long day on the crush pad. Although, harvest is also about sharing and Raj makes a point to open up extraordinary bottles to share with his team so that they know what to aspire to. There were many many iconic bottles of wine opened up while I was there from Champagne to the great whites and reds of Burgundy and the Rhone, Italian, German and Austrian Rieslings… you name it!
Sounds like a dream. What is your hands-down favorite part about working the harvest?
The camaraderie of working physically hard with a team. As an intern, you are the low man on the totem pole, but it’s still fun to watch and learn what people are doing and see the decision making process. I loved going out into the vineyards and walking through the vines. Vineyards are such beautiful and peaceful places. They are so organized and wild at the same time. It’s a wonderful juxtaposition that I find a lot of harmony in. As much as I adore NYC, it’s important to physically get yourself in a vineyard for a few hours to gain some perspective.
It’s sort of like that dressing room camaraderie backstage on Broadway right? Well, except for the lights and the makeup and the costumes and well… maybe it’s not quite like that, but I do love that camaraderie thing. But back to the vino- from the labor of your harvest, what is the bottle you’re most excited to taste?
2013 Domaine de la Cote, La Cote. Also, the “Troken” project which is a dry Riesling modeled after Johannes Leitz from the Rheingau.
I can quench the acid now and just hoping I can get my hands on some of this stuff to taste the fruits of your labor. Would you do a Cali. harvest again?
I would love to.
What wine region or winemaker is on your wish list to harvest in the world?
It would be cool to work in Burgundy and Piedmont.
Ok- any musts (dining or otherwise) for Napa or the Santa Barbara region right now? Where do we need to go?
If you are ever near Santa Barbara, you MUST go to Mattei’s Tavern. One of the best dining experiences I’ve ever had!
Ah yes, in lovely Los Olivos- love that town, it always makes me think about that iconic Sideways scene just outside the Los Olivos Cafe with Paul Giammati announcing that he’s not going to drink “any f*$#ing Merlot” (that line really did do a number on Merlot sales). Anyway, I have not been to Mattei’s- it is now officially on the list.
Thank you Sabra for sharing, I can’t wait to follow along with your continuing adventures in vino, you are on a roll.
Thanks for the interview. Cheers!
Pick up one of the 2013 bottles Sabra helped to harvest, and taste the fruits of her labor:
Sandhi La Cote Pinot Noir 2013, $90: California’s Prince of Pinot, Rajat Parr’s photo is what you find when you look up rockstar sommelier turned winemaker. Parr knows how to let the wine tell its own tale. This Pinot sings the song of the Santa Rita Hills (my personal favorite wine region and if-I-could-live-anywhere-in-the-world spot). These hills were made for Pinot. Paul Giamatti’s Sideways character agrees. The La Cote is a great bottle to invest in and daydeam about until that special occasion calls for you to pop its cork. Also makes for a killer and molto impressive gift.
Scholium Project Dulcissima Camilla Farina Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2013, $29: Abe Schoener’s wines are not for everybody. He is a former classics Professor who gets off on really pushing the envelope with his juice. Experimentation is his game, and in turn, he’s a culty wine nerd’s hero. Not your momma’s Sauvignon Blanc, this one is ever changing depending on when it’s opened, but expect some serious funk, a little residual sugar and killer acid.
*Bonus: Sabra’s pals were simultaneously hard at work helping another cult California winemaker, Steve Matthiason last fall. Here’s a ripe pick from their harvest: Matthiason Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, $60: a shining star example of a near perfect Cali Cab. This is the stuff that made Napa famous. Structured and lean, yet packed with fruit, this is the epitome of a classic Napa Cab- these guys got the balance of fruit to tannin just right- like Goldilocks sipping from Baby Bear’s bowl.
Follow along with rising somm star, Sabra Lewis here and here.
P.S.: If you want to explore the Santa Rita Hills, Solvang, Lompoc and Los Olivos, this is my favorite vacation rental company. I am eyeing this house for my best group of gals to reunion at someday soon- right in the heart of wine country. The 7 of us stayed here a few years ago and it was truly something to write home about. The built-in backyard trampoline amounted to lots of ready-made memories. For this type of property, if you have a large group, the prices are pretty great.
Former showgirl, forever travel junkie, sometime sommelier, and mom to twin bebes. This little blog is a mixed bag of tasting notes, travels, tales of motherhood, and current musings. Thank you for stopping by. Cin Cin! (photo by Amy Dickerson for Anthology Magazine)
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